ENVIRONMENT

GEOLOGY - GEOGRAPHY	TOPOGRAPHY
THE GIRNE RANGE	THE MESAORIA PLAIN
THE CLIMATE	FLORA

The total area of the TRNC, covering the northern part of the island is 3355 sq. km, approximately one third of the whole island. Nearly half of coast-line of the island is also part of the TRNC.

About 45% of the area is arable land, 20% of which is irrigated. Nearly 20% of North Cyprus total area is wooded and there are extensive re-forestration programs in progress.

GEOLOGY - GEOGRAPHY

Cyprus is nearly 200 million years old. During the time the continent of Africa has been moving north-eastwards at a speed of about 2 cm. a year and Eurasia eastwards at about 0.3 cm. a year, Cyprus lying in the confrontation zone between these two huge plates.

The Troodos mountains (Southern Range) were formed as an ocean ridge at depths of 2 to 4 km, beginning about 85 to 75 million years ago, in the Upper Creataceous period.

The Alphine chain of which the GIRNE range (Northern Range) is a part was caused by the folding and fracturing of the Sedimentary rocks that formed on the ocean (Tethys) floor between Africa and Eurasia. The GIRNE range is the backbone of North Cyprus, consisting mainly of marble and dolomite types of hard limestone. Its age is believed to be 100 million years.

About two million years ago Cyprus consisted of a chain of islands. The peaks of the Northern Range were separated from the Troodos island to the south by a shallow sea. The land continued to rise and the shallow sea gradually became the MESAORIA plain, making Cyprus one island.

THE PROFILE OF THE KYRENIA RANGE

The over-all length of the Kyrenia Range, from its emergence from the sea near Korucam to the last outcrop of Hilarion Marble at Zafer Burnu seen from the map just over 160 km. In retrospect, the general impression is of a low-arched, asymmetrical dome reaching its maximum elevation of 1024 m. at Selvili Tepe, only 24 km from its western starting point, and there after descending gradually to its eastern sea-level termination.

In many places, between Kayalar and Yedikonuk, the arch has been fractured by either transverse faults or other tectonic dislocations, creating breaks in the topographical profile which are clearly visible when the Range is viewed from the sea. These notches in the mountain sky line, which are much more conspicuous in the western sector where the main masses are concentrated,divide this main section of the Range into ten clearly defined segments, each around 8 km in length and apart from the peaks, showing a general accordance of summit level of 750 to 800 m.

Enumerating from the west, the segments are:

THE CLIMATE

The climate of the island is of an extreme Mediterranean type with very hot dry summers and relatively cold winters.

Most of the rainfall is concentrated between December and January.

The climate of the coastal parts is less extreme than farther inland, due to the fact that the effect of the sea jon atmospheric humidities is always present there.

The sea temperature itself never falls below 16ºC. (January and February); in August it can rise to 28 ºC.

Spring and autumn are short, typified by changeable weather, with occasional heavy storms battering the coast in spring and a westerly wind, called "meltem" carrying the influence of Atlantic depressions to this far eastern end of the Mediterranean.

From mid-May to mid-September the sun shines on a daily average of around 11 hours. Temperatures can reach 40º C. On the Mesaoria Plain, although lower on the coasts, with a north-westerly breeze called "Poyraz" prevailing. The skies are cloudless with a low humidity, 40 - 60 per cent, thus the high temperatures are easier to bear. The hot, dry, dust-laden "sirocco" wind blowing from Africa also finds its way to the island.

Short-lived stormy conditions resulting from fairly frequent small depressions prevail throughout the winter, with 60 per cent of rain falling between December and February. The Northern Range receives around 550 mm of rain per year, whereas the Mesaoria Plain receives only around 300-400 mm.

Frost and snow are almost unknown in Northern Cyprus, although night temperatures can fall to very low levels in winter.

The chief rain-bearing air currents reach the island from the south-west, so that precipitation and atmospheric humidity is at its greatest on the western and south-western sides of the Southern Range. Eastwards, precipition and humidity are reduced by the partial rain-shadow effect of the Southern Range, a similar effect is also caused by the Northern Range which cut off the humidity associated with proximity to the sea from much of the northern Mesaoria Plain. Eastwards of the Northern Range, towards the bays of the Karpaz Peninsula, where the land narrows and the effect of sea influence increases accordingly, humidity increases progressively towards the end of the peninsula.

Most of the rivers are simply winter torrents, only flowing after heavy rain, the rivers running out of the Northern and Southern Ranges rarely flowing all the year round.

During the wet winter months Cyprus is a green island. However, by the time June arrives the landscape at the lower levels assumes the brown, parched aspect which characterises its summer face. The forests and the vineyards in the mountains, plus the stips of irrigated vegatation in the valleys remain green.

FAUNA - PART I

The only large indigenous wild animal still in existence in the Island is the Mouflon, a variety of mountain sheep pecular to Cyprus. This animal is in a reservation in the Southern part of the Island and on the Troodos mountains.

The other indigenous animals are the hare, fox, hedgehog, rat and various kinds of bats. The Island had an unenviable reputation for her abundance of snakes. Numerous snakes can be seen in the hot summer months but they are by no means all poisonous. The only really poisonous snake in the Island is a species of viper. Most of the other snakes seen in the Island are not dangerous, especially the large black one which serves a very useful purpose in preying on rats and other vermin.

There are two kinds of lizards; and blind worms and chameleons are also to be found. The small gekko, with suckers on its feet is common in older houses. Two kinds of frogs, the green tree frog and the edible frog, are also common in the Island.

On the bird life of Island one can say that Cyprus falls between two of the great bird migration routes, one from western Russia Southwards through Palestine to East Africa, and the other being the Balkan African route.

As a result of this position of the Island, many interesting birds are to be observed, especially during the times of Spring and Autumn passages. Of the indigenous species the largest are vultures and eagles. The Vulture, the most common scavenger, sails for hours on end in the air currents with scarcely a movement of its large wings. It is by far the most common of its species. The Black Vulture is present in relatively small numbers. Of the eagles, two species may be seen and are not uncommon. They are the large Imperial Eagle, which feeds on small mammals and carrion and the smaller Bonelli's Eagle, which is a much fiercer bird than its larger cousin. Occasionally Spotted Eagles visit the Island.

The Grecian Rock Partrige is also common, while Francolin can also be seen in a few small colonies in the Karpas region.

In the plains and open foothills larks, mainly the crested variety, are common. The small Black and White Cyprian Wheateater is conspicuous, especially in the foothill regions. Flocks of pigeons nesting in forests and cliffs are common throughout the Island.

Black Bellied Sand Grouse nest in small colonies in some of the more barren and stony parts of the Mesaoria plain. Along the coasts of the Island, Shag and Cormorant are to be seen together with numerous species of gulls. At river mouths and along the more rocky coasts small Red and Green Kingfishers can be sometimes be seen.

During Winter numerous wild fowl visit the Island; snipe, woodcock, quail, many varieties of duck and occasional bustard geese. Large number of finches and other small birds are also common Winter visitors.

Of the birds, notable for their song, the most outstanding are the Golden Oriole, Nightingale, Blue Rock Thrush and Black Headed Bunting; all to be heard early in Summer. The most spectacular and highly coloured birds commonly seen in the Island are the Golden Oriole, Bee Eater, Roller, Hoopoe, Kingfisher and Filamingo. The main part of the Island visited by Filamingos is the Larnaca Salt Lake, which is in the South of the Island.

Cyprus being an Island, has several species pecular to itself; Cyprian Wheateater, Chat, Cyprian Coal Titmouse, Cyprian Tree Creeper, Cyprian Crossbill, Cyprian Scops owl.

The seas around the Island are rich in a variety of small fish, some of them very beautifully coloured. Large fish, however, are not abundant. Of the local fish the most commonly caught are the red grey mullet, rock bream, gunard and sometimes larger fish as bonito, tunny and skate. In addition a variety of smaller fish are caught and may be observed exposed for sale.

Large spiders and centipedes exist but are not dangerous. The most dangerous invertebrate is perhaps the scorpion, which is not very common. There are numerous insects found in the Island, none of which are particularly dangerous to humans.

In Summer many hornets are to be seen, but they are remarkably mild natured and do not generally sting unless greatly sting unless greatly provoked. Night flying moths are particularly abundant.

TOPOGRAPHY

Topographically, Cyprus is divided into three major physical regions corresponding with the main geological divisions. They are:

The Troodos Mountains or the Southern Range, occupying the central part of the island,

The Girne Mountain Range, or the Northern Range, along the northern coast, and

The Mesaoria Plain, running from Guzelyurt Bay in the west to Gazi Magosa Bay in the east and separating the two highland areas.

The high Troodos Mountains of the Southern Range in the center and Southwest are pine covered and have a snow capping in the winter, reaching on average 700m. with a maximum of 1,925 m, with copper deposits on their northern flanks, believed to have given the island its name, i.e. Cyprus.

The Girne Range runs parallel to the northern coast with a coastal plain, some 6 km in average width, between it and the sea. A few of its summits rise to around 900 m but the general elevation in the western and central sectors averages 600 m. The topographical map of the island shows that the mountains do not extend along the entire northern coast but start near Kayalar, in the west, and dwindle in the east to a range of low hills which form the backbone of the Karpaz Peninsula. In spite of its modest altitude, the range forms an effective physical barrier between the central plain and the northern coast, a barrier broken by the three main passes of Gecitköy, Bogaz and Gecitkale. The vegetation cover on the two flanks shows a marked contrast, the northern slopes being well clothed with pine and cypress forests whilst the southern slopes bear garrigue and maquis scrub down to the semiarid plains of the Mesaoria. Mainly due to the upthrust masses of hard limestone, forming such impressive peaks as Buffavento, St. Hilarion, Sehit Kivanc Tepesi and Besparmak, the Girne Mountains are characterized by a wide variety of scenery that is both spectacular and delightful.

The narrow coastal terraces of the Northern Range are well watered and very fertile. In contrast to its jagged peaks, its sides are wooded. Below the woods there is a band of arid badlands, lying on the Kythrea flysch, up to 9 km wide in places on the south side of the range though quite narrow on the north side.

The eastern extremity of the North Coast is the Karpaz peninsula, its peninsula, its backbone being a continuation at a lower level of the Northern Range for another 60 km appearing as a line of low hills surrounded by flat plateaux and deep valleys.

THE MESAORIA PLAIN

The Mesaoria Plain extending between the Northern Range and the Southern Range right across the island from Guzelyurt, through Nicosia to Famagusta is 20 km long, 20 to 40 km wide, covering an area of 962 sq. km.

The Northern Range affects the Mesaoria Plain climatically, claiming most of the rain brought on by the northerly winds.

The Mesaoria Plain is an extensive alluvial area, mainly flat and potentially fertile. However, it has a semi-desert condition for much of the year, due to a low level of rainfall that it receives.

The Mesaoria Plain, is mainly devoted, especially in its central and eastern parts, to double- harvest crops of wheat and barely essential to the North Cyprus economy.

Vast sheets of yellow Mustard (Sinapis alba) and Crown Daisy, varied with lilac Erucaria make a cherrful landscape in spring on the limestone Kafkalla areas of the Mesaoria Plain.

The Northern Strip, covering the whole swath of lowland between the Northern Range and the Sea, short of coastal cliffs or dunes and the special environment at the two extremities of Cape Korucam and Cape Zafer, includes a series of two or three geological terraces at its broad strip, as well as many man-made terraces accompanying the Olive and Carob plantations often reaching high up into the hillsides; the fertile ravines and citrus orchards of Lapta and Alsancak and the red-soil vegatable-growing area around Yali. Like westward from Kayalar, the strip becomes at places extremely narrow with the limestone cliffs coming down almost to the sea.

The area south of Akdeniz with its singularly beautiful sandy beach and unique stone pine forest is a point of great attraction.

The areas of marsh land are steadily diminishing as a result of increased agricultural activity by a rapidly expanding population using up-to-date mechanical equipment. However, marshes still occur on the costal parts of the Guzelyurt Bay area as well as near Famagusta. In certain of the river beds in the central Mesaoria Plain, localised marshy conditions are to be found. The coastline is sandy, rocky or pebbly.

On the south side of the Karpaz peninsula and all along the north coast there are my riads of small coves, most of which would provide safe anchorage for small ships of shallow sraught, and many of them show traces of ancient jetties or small harbour installations. Up to the 1930's caiques used to call at small horthernbays to collect agricultural produce.

As the Mediterranean has a comparatively small daily tidal rise and fall the junction between land and sea appears to vary little throughout the year, with a coastline alternaring between rock and coarse sand beaches.

The intertidal zone is only 30-40 cm wide, a habitat of sea slugs, other small molluses and of the small burrowing crabs whose holes are visible on the beaches.

The waters around the island are the cleanest remaining in the Mediterranean.

The presence of such rare animals as marine turtles, undeveloped pristine beaches also makes North Cyprus very suitable for ecotourism.

A very important portion of the past, present and future of the TRNC lies in its waters. The immense archaelogical, biological and economic potential hidden beneath the waters of the TRNC is waiting to be researched, utilized and preserved.

FLORA

As Cyprus enjoys the Mediterranean climate the natural flora of the Island is rich and interesting to the botanist, as well as to the uninitiated.

The Summer visitors to the Island will be struck by the apparent barrenness of the plains and foothills which are frequently bare of trees for miles. This seeming infertility derives from the fact that the greater part of the lowland flora consist of winter annuals.

The Island, being in the Eastern part of the Mediterranean, does not get enough rainfall in Summer. But the animals to be found in the island have a wide-spread origin. Some can also be found in North West Europe, while others can be found in South Africa.

In trying to describe the flora of the Island, it is advisable to look first at the forest trees. The most wide-spread species of forest trees, are natural pine, Cypress and oak. Eucalyptus varieties have also been introduced to the Island. Forests in the Island are confined to the Southern massif and the Kyrenia range.

The Southern foothills of the Kyrenia range and most parts of the Island are covered with evergreen shrubs. These shrubs are mostly common in the coastal regions. Two of the commonest of these shrub varieties, particularly well developed in the Karpass area are: Juniperus Phoenicea and Pistacia Lentiscus. In place the foeristically rich scrubs, cistus calycorome, lithospermin and lavandula occur.

Though the lowlands are yellow and brunt in the Summer months, within a week of the beginning of the rainy season the fields and foothills are covered with new vegetation. In Cyprus the autumn and winter annuals are very quickly followed by the spring flowers, so that one thinks that there are not two flowering seasons in the Island but one long flowering season.

The first flowering plants are scillas, grape hyacinths, encus, calchicucun and narcissus serotinus, followed, at the new year, by one of the loveliest of the Cyprus endemics, Romulea tempskaya with its star like flower in colours varying from deep purple to pure white.

Also in this season, cyclamen persicum presents a very beautiful scene at the foot of the Karpass and Kantara. In march and April the wild anemones and the lilies of the field, with great variations in colour and form, begin to flower. The Southern slopes of the Kyrenia range present a magnificent view with blankety coverings of these flowers. Meanwhile, in cultivated fields near Myrtou (Camlibel) wild tulips are abundant; and in other parts of the lowlands, narcissus tazetta can be found in abundance.

At the end of April and the month of May, though the central plains are getting hot and dry the Northern slopes get a beautiful covering of flowers. Most common are wild orchids and about half a dozen species of ophrys with the red and white flowered cistus

As much of Cyprus is under cultivation, indigenous animals are reduced in number: and in some cases have become varieties confined to odd corners of the Island.

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